Lash Anatomy and Growth Cycles

Anatomy & Physiology

Natural Lash Growth Cycle

Our Natural Lashes have several growth phases. Namely, The Growth Phase (Anagen), The Transition phase (Catagen) and The Resting/Shedding Phase (Telogen).

The average person has around 90-150 natural lashes and each of these will be in either 3 of the lash growth phases.

1. ANAGEN PHASE (Active Growth Phase)

• Duration: 30-45 days (approximately 4-6 weeks)
• What’s happening: This is the active growth phase where the lash is actively growing from the follicle. Blood supply and nutrients are flowing to the hair bulb.
• Percentage of lashes: About 40% of upper lashes and 15% of lower lashes are in this phase at any given time
• Why it matters for lash artists: These are the IDEAL lashes to apply extensions to because they’re strong, firmly rooted, and will last the longest. They have the best retention potential.
• Characteristics: These lashes feel firmly attached and won’t come out easily when gently tugged during isolation

2. CATAGEN PHASE (Transition/Regression Phase)

• Duration: 2-3 weeks
• What’s happening: The lash stops growing. The hair follicle shrinks and detaches from the blood supply. The lash is no longer receiving nutrients but remains in the follicle.
• Percentage of lashes: About 3% of lashes are in this phase
• Why it matters for lash artists: These lashes are preparing to shed soon. Extensions applied to catagen lashes will have shorter retention since the natural lash will fall out within 2-3 weeks.
• Characteristics: These lashes may feel slightly looser than anagen lashes

3. TELOGEN PHASE (Resting/Shedding Phase)

• Duration: About 100 days (approximately 3+ months)
• What’s happening: The lash is fully mature and resting in the follicle. It’s no longer growing and is preparing to shed. A new lash is beginning to grow underneath, which will eventually push out the old lash.
• Percentage of lashes: About 50-60% of lashes are in this phase at any time
• Why it matters for lash artists: These lashes will shed SOON (could be days or weeks). While you can still apply extensions to them, clients need to understand these will naturally fall out as part of the normal cycle. These lashes have the poorest retention.
• Characteristics: May feel loose or come out very easily during cleansing or application

Why it is important to know.

1. Setting Realistic Retention Expectations When clients understand that their lashes naturally shed every 60-90 days, they won’t be surprised or disappointed when extensions fall out. Artists can explain that shedding is normal, not a service failure.

2. Timing Refill Appointments Appropriately Knowing that lashes shed at different rates helps artists recommend the right refill schedule (typically 2-4 weeks) based on each client’s natural cycle and lifestyle.

3. Avoiding Damage to Natural Lashes Understanding which lashes are in which phase prevents artists from applying extensions that are too heavy for lashes in the early growth stage, which could cause premature shedding or damage.

4. Explaining “Patchy” Periods Clients sometimes experience periods where more lashes shed at once. Artists who understand the cycle can educate clients that this is natural and temporary, not poor application.

5. Managing Client Complaints Professionally When clients complain about retention, knowledge of the growth cycle allows artists to assess whether it’s truly a technique issue or natural shedding, and address concerns with confidence and education.

6. Proper Extension Selection Matching extension weight and length to the natural lash’s growth phase ensures better retention and healthier natural lashes.

It is essential to understand these phases well. This knowledge will allow you to educate your clients on the shedding process of their natural lashes. If it is the case that a client is concerned about the shedding of their lash extensions/ retention, you are able to explain why some clients have more shedding of lashes compared to others.